me arts ed

So appreciative of my opportunity

I just returned from two weeks in Greece. In the Spring I got word that one of my cousins sons was getting married and baptizing twins. My sister and brothers and I and our families were invited. When my younger son called and said, “we’re going, aren’t we?” I didn’t hesitate, YES, of course! He’s been fortunate to travel but was saving Greece to go with me. My Dad was born in the village of Akrata on the Pelloponesos and came to America when he was 12. My mother is first generation born here so my roots are very strong.

We flew to Athens and spent time at the National Archeological Museum of Athens and the Acropolis Museum and at the Parthenon. My son had learned about Ancient Greece in his high school AP Art History course and was anxious to see the contents of the museums as well as what remains outside. It is easy for Americans to forget how old many other countries are and so difficult to imagine the number of years some of the structures have been standing. Pollution is damaging the Parthenon daily but I found myself asking over and over, how did they manage to build the amazing structures? And, then to imagine them philosophizing, creating, and solving problems in the structures.

From Athens we flew to Heraklion, Crete (island, 50 minutes from Athena) where my cousin met us at the airport. We helped prepare for the wedding but it was nothing after the months and months of preparation for the 500 guests that were invited. They said that was a small number of guests for a Greek wedding. The celebration started that evening at a gathering with about 50 family members. The bride, groom and close friends had been preparing food all day. A whole goat and lamb were cooked over a small fire, plus prepared in other ways, potatoes, salads, snails, desserts. There wasn’t one item that wasn’t absolutely delicious. All prepared with love and care. The drinking and dancing were of course a major portion of the gathering.

The wedding was equally wonderful taking place outside at a tiny Greek Orthodox church in a BIG setting. The church was built up against looming mountains and everywhere I looked it was beautiful as the sunset on the ceremony. The wedding ceremony wasn’t different than Greek weddings in the US but the setting was breath taking. You’ll notice in the photos the ribbon that is attaching the bride and groom. The stefana are crowns that signify that the bride and groom have become the king and queen of the newly formed family. The best man or in Greek, the koubaro steps behind the couple and places and interchanges the crowns three times, as a witness to the sealing of their union. Immediately following the wedding ceremony was the christening of the twins, which is a beautiful ceremony as well. The reception was filled with more incredible food, drink, music, and dancing.

Following the wedding we visited the beautiful island of Santorini, where it was difficult not to take wonderful photographs! Everywhere we went during the two weeks it was very warm and unusually humid. The sun was brilliant, even at 9AM. Many people swim at the beautiful beaches and spend time outside. The sky is a brilliant blue. Homes have verandas which are extensions of their indoor living space. Many of the restaurants are in side yards of peoples homes.

We left Crete and traveled over the amazing Korinth Canal to visit my fathers village. There are many ancient sites on the Pelloponesos. We visited Mycenae which was one of the major centers of Greek civilization during 1600 BC to about 1100 BC. Again we saw artifacts from that time period including the amazing pots varying in size and patterns. I stared at the entrance which includes the Lion Gates again wondering, how did they do it? All that remains of the tomb of Clytemnestra (wife of Agamemnon) is a huge beehive structure built of giant blocks. While there a touring singing group broke into song and the sound was incredible.

We visited Acrocorinth, occupied from the archaic times to the early 19th century. A moat and three arches including walls mark the entrance which were built as protection. Valuable water resource was available there despite its elevation. There is a pretty little Greek Orthodox church that is still standing and even though it is in need of repair is very sacred. At the top was a temple to Aphrodite which has an unbelievable view.

We traveled by train for an hour to Kalavryta located in the Achaea municipality not to far from Akrata. The railway was completed in 1895. It winds uphill very close to the mountains it was cut out of and is a continuous amazing site. At the top lies the village of  Kalavryta where on December 13, 1943 a massacre took place in retribution for the killing of 81 German soldiers. The Nazis machine-gunned down almost 700 of the Kalavryta men while below them their homes were set fire. Woman and children were ordered to the school and as it was set fire they broke down the door and jumped out the windows to escape. The school was rebuilt and now serves as the museum and does a wonderful job telling the story. It was very moving. We left Kalavryta and traveled over the mountain finding no one on the road other than tribes of goats, rocks that had tumbled down onto the road. The switchbacks were like nothing I had ever traveled before.

Everywhere we went the food was amazing. I love the way the Greeks call ahead and ask if the food establishment is open. There is no menu – the owner comes out to the outside tables and lists what they’ve cooked for the day. Usually 4 or 5 choices, at least one of lamb. Each serves a salad which is usually contains tomatoes and cucumbers. On a separate plate feta cheese and another olives. Often the family wine is available and delicious water from the spring on the property.

A highlight of the trip was seeing the evzones at the changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier. Their precisions is a joy to watch. We saw them at the beginning of the trip and then met my cousins son who is a member of this group of soldiers. On our last day in Athens we watched him in the parade and had the chance to visit in the barracks area. I was so proud!

Another highlight was spending time with my relatives. My aunt had 5 children who our around my age and they all of children who are similar in age to my sons. It was a special treat to spend time with some of them, especially for my son. We hope to see some of them in the future on a visit to America.

Our visit to Akrata was certainly a highlight as well, staying in the home that my Dad lived in while he was a child before traveling to America. The village is the home to about 2000, many Greeks traveling from Athens for the weekend and/or summer months. The beach is beautiful. Everywhere you look from the veranda or roof of my aunts home is beautiful! The home was updated built around the original three rooms which was in place the first time I visited in 1973. My fathers sister still lives there, she is 90 years old.

The economy in Greece continues to be very poor with about 25 per cent unemployed. Many people out of work for 4 or 5 years. In spite of this, the hospitality has not wavered. My families arms were open and their hearts very giving. I am so appreciative to have made the trip and to have my son join me. I hope these photos (a few of the almost 2000) and my brief description provide a glimpse of our trip. Please feel free to email me or comment in the blog if you have questions.